Original Article

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The latest interest in noninvasive at-home treatments involves spicule skin-care formulas, which are often referred to as “liquid microneedling” without the need for puncturing skin. Always a step ahead, spicule skin care unsurprisingly originated in Korean serums before making its way Stateside.

“Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from marine sponges, plant extracts, or synthetic bioactive materials,” explains Anetta Reszko, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York. According to cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu, they’re often hollow, and thus can be filled with active ingredients. Though you can’t see them in a product, you can certainly feel them once a formula containing spicules has been applied. Imagine rubbing a small amount of fiberglass into the skin, sharp and stinging—we never said it would feel pleasant!—with the level of irritation spiking as the concentration of spicules in a formula increases.

Experts say spicule skin care is growing in popularity because it bridges the gap between med spa treatments and an at-home routine with formulas that feel clinical and deliver fast results but don’t require an appointment or consultation. And the purported benefits that spicules offer the skin sound a lot like those offered by traditional microneedling: “When applied to the skin, spicules gently puncture the outermost layer [the stratum corneum], which encourages cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and can help with the absorption of active ingredients,” explains Eunice Park, MD, a dual-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York. (While both spicule skin care and microneedling can help active ingredients absorb more deeply into the skin, they’re two different treatments—which we’ll get into more specifically later on.)

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Best Mask: Mediheal Spicule Pore Tightening System

• Why We Love It: If you’re not ready to commit to using spicules in your daily routine, try this weekly two-step treatment—it consists of a spicule-packed ampoule and a gel sheet mask. Simply slick on the ampoule, then layer the serum-soaked sheet mask on top. After about 30 minutes, the sheet mask will fade from white to clear, a sign that the active ingredients—including collagen, seaweed extract, and vitamin B5—have fully absorbed. Once you remove the mask, you’ll see tighter-looking pores and a glassy skinlike glow.
• Key Ingredients: Multiple forms of collagen, seaweed extract, pantothenic acid
• Best For: Enlarged pores
• Size: Two dual-phase treatments
  

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